The Adventure of Ruan: Salkantay, the path to Machu Picchu, and the citadel

From what we could find, there are 4 ways to get to the Aguas Calientes (the town at the base of Machu Picchu).
The well known “Inca trail.” Ironically all the paths made by the Inca to travel along are called Inca Trails. This is just the commercial one.
Take the train. Yes there is a train that runs from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.
”Inca Jungle.” Start off with a downhill bike ride (along paved road), walk through the jungle through two towns (sometimes along the road with traffic) to the hydroelectric power plant and Aguas Calientes.
Hike 3day past Salkantay mountain, called the Salkantay hike. End up at the hydro electric power plant. This is the one I was hooked on :)

I have developed a serious dislike for organised tours on my trip. So I really wanted to do Salkantay without a group & carry my own stuff. Almost like the Fish river canyon hike in Namibia, just add a tent. This hike goes up to 4600m where you have a view of the Salkantay mountain. Then down into a valley and various routs to Aguas Calientes. Carolina needed some supplies as she packed in a haste and had brought the bare minimum…literally (I didn’t mention this before, but it gave me lots of hope to see how lightly she packed). All rented and packed, we grabbed a collectivo to Mollapata. This is where the hike starts.

We caught a bus up with another couple (on a tour) to where there was just a trail. A bit of cheating, but I didn’t fancy walking next to a single lane dirt road for a day. That’s how long it would’ve taken us. I took it easy to start off, but Carolina was struggling. For some reason the altitude just caught her. A couple of rests and she was doing better than me. Just before you get to the summit of the hike, at 4600m, the path goes up a steep slope so lots of switchbacks. The air is so thin, breathing is quite laboured.

Paul had advised us not to sleep at the first camp site as the wind coming form Salkantay passes over the snow, ice & glaciers which make it freezing at night. Another while, think 1-2hours, we got to the campsite…in the dark :| Got ourselves sorted and met a South African couple living in Dubai. Very nice, just a pity we didn’t bump into them again. It was their first time hiking.

The second day was difficult. I bought a new pair of shoes in Santiago which were hurting the bridge of my feet by this time. We spent the day walking down into a valley with a “tropical” climate. There were many houses along the way. Usually the only thing to connect them was the mountain path that we were walking on. When we were getting close to the camp site, there were some locals carrying firewood. I just had to help out. Made my forget about my feet.
By the time we arrived at the camp site, I was finished. The next day we had two options. Flat walk to the town & collectivo to the hydro electric power plant, or walk 3hours up to Llactapata (a lookout of Machu Picchu) then 2 hours down switchbacks. Carolina’s knee was acting up. I wasn’t up for the Llactapata. Wilson, a guide of anther group, was very friendly and inspiring. When he heard that we were going to take the easy option, he urged me to hike to Llactapata. “In 15years from now, you will look back and kick yourself for not hiking up,” he said. How could I not do it? Carolina was a real trooper. “I’m not going to take the collectivo and you hike. I’m coming along.”
So we went and I’m glad I did. A view of Machu Picchu and the hike wasn’t that bad. There is a train from the hydro electric plant that runs to Aguas Calientes, but we would have to wait 2 hours. People were telling us it would take 1-1.5hours to hike, next to the tracks. So we did. Only problem was that “halfway” my feet were killing me and to make it worse the hike took us about 3hours. 20min out form the station, the train came past! That was depressing! The pain in my feet was all-consuming by this stage. Made it to town and sat down at the first bench, while Carolina found us a hostel.

One of the reasons I didn’t want to go on an organised tour was because I like to be on my own time. So, instead of racing to Machu Picchu the next day while we were tired, we took a day off. Slept late, good food and a visit to the hot springs (hence where Aguas Calientes gets its name). We did some info hunt too to find out the ins-and-outs. You can take a bus that leaves at 5:30am or walk up at 5am. Gamble we shall and walked up. As they only allow 400 people into Huayna Picchu, first come first served, it is quite crucial to get there early.

Machu Picchu…What a sight! We started just strolling around the citadel until we could enter the Hyana Picchu gates at 7am. We got some people together and hired a guide. Fortunately all the guides that work here ARE screened and have IDs to prove that they are certified. I stared asking Ruben, our guide, the “tester questions to check whether he knew something. He did. It then we told him about our shocking guide at Sacsayhuaman and it turns out that Ruben and Lucho (the best guide in the world) studied and worked together! Small world :) Ruben also took us around the citadel of Machu Picchu. I am very glad that we spent so much time around the other ruins first, as this gave us a good understanding of the building styles and history of the Inca. Making Machu Picchu more than just a couple of interesting old buildings. Of course I did my usual thing and asked LOTS of questions :)

This place has such a calming feeling about it, I could sit there for hours and just stare at down at the citadel and the surrounding mountains. And this isn’t even mentioning the amazing buildings that these people build. There are rocks that have been made in to seasonal markers that indicate when you should plant and when harvest should start. There were not stupid people!

Once again, instead of rushing back to Cusco that afternoon, we stayed another night and took the early train. Besides the painful feet, this trip was more than I had imagined.

Collectivo to Mollapata – A “street” in Mollapata – Start of the hike (Salkantay snow capped in the background)

Two happy campers (right at the beginning) – Another organised group’s camp @ 11:00. Eish – Salkantay

The summit of our hike @ 4600m. Salkantay’s peak is above 6000m! – Our decent into the valley – A moment to reflect on the beauty

Me helping a local carry fuel – Half way up to Llactapata – At Llactapata looking at Machu Picchu.

Bridge before the hydroelectric power plant – On the way to Aguas Callientes along the tracks – The view of our room in Aguas Callientes

Waiting for the bottom gate to open (we’re about last) – At the main Machu Picchu gate. See all the people we passed :) – Just entered. On our way to Waynapicchu – Ruben our guide