The Adventure of Ruan: Carretera Austral

I’m going to do two new things with this area. I will spit this post up into sections as I will be on the Carretera Austral for some time and don’t think it will fit into one post (without being boring). Secondly, I’m going to try write this post as I travel. Having to write these posts can get quite time consuming. So here goes…

Lets start with where it is. Below is a map, if not with lots of detail, but you will get the idea. (Click on it for a larger view)

So starting from El Chalten, we (Alex and I) were told it is VERY difficult, if not impossible, to cross the “summer route” into Chile at Villa O’Higgins. This would involve a bus ride, ferry across Lagoa del Desierto (or hike around it), 6hour hike to the border, another 6 hour hike to Lago O’Higgins, a ferry ride to a port close to Villa O’Higgins and then a short bus ride. During winter the ferry on the lagoon is closed and the ferry on Lago O’Higgins is only used for cargo which runs sporadically. I guess they were right.
We opted for the route north to Perito Moreno (not the glacier, but the town) then we would cross into Chile at Chile Chico. That was the plan…

Team Fantastico was together for the trip to Perito Moreno (map here). A LONG bus ride along some of the worst road I have ever had the “pleasure” of riding on. The bus could only maintain an average speed of 30kph, with 40kph the maximum (which I don’t think we ever reached). Oh and did I mention the heat? You could cook a small squirrel on your lap…if that's your thing. After some friendly chatting I was able to get the AC on, which helped…until they turned the heat off totally. Then it was like the arctic. Do there people not understand the concept of temperature control? At least cold is better than hot, I had my sleeping bag with me…just in case this would happen :)

Right, back to the action. Alex and I are a bit stubborn about our plans. If we want to hitchhike, we want to hitchhike. Even if there is a bus waiting for our arrival at Perito Moreno to take us to Los Antiguos (the Argentinean border town). Waving the bus good-bye…we wait. Argentineans don’t seem the most willing to give lifts, at least not to the two of us. I hadn’t shaved…I would that night :)
Finally got a lift with a Chilean to Los Antiguos. Not much to the town, except lots of berry farms and the usual places. Settled in for the night, we were ready for Chile!

We had to walk about 1km to the Argentinean border and there were no great issues. Just a bit weird, after being stamped out (about 5min later) a guard came to check our bags for contraband (not very well). Guess he just wanted to chat, this border is really quite. We got a lift with a lady involved with construction on no-mans-land to cover the 8km to the Chilean border. She had hitched when she was longer and struggled to get lifts, so she had pity on us.
The Chilean border was a bit more organised. Papers filled & passports stamped, our bags were searched. Latex gloves and all, we weren’t searched :) I was complimented on how organised my backpack was. If he only knew.
A short lift to Chile Chico, which wasn’t as easy to get a we had hoped, probably because it was Sunday. The town was great! Colourful, well kept and it had a nice feel. There is also a small dock where the ferry to Puerto Ibanez runs from, very neat! We were a bit disappointed that we didn’t stay here. Such is life.

The Austral, which is a pretty bad dirt road left at the end of the main street. Easy to spot. Here we sat for some time. Having lunch, writing postcards and reading. Finally a newly wed couple who had moved here because they like the town, gave us a lift. But there were only going 50km. We were hoping to get to Puerto Guardal, about 100km. They assured us that there was a camping spot close to the entrance to their farm. At worst we could camp (Alex and I both have tents).
The ride was beautiful and we quickly realise why it is better to have your own wheel when travelling here. They were friendly and gave us some tips about the Austral…all in Spanish, so I only caught a word or two. Alex was sucking it all up like a sponge. They were nice enough to stop so we could take photos at a couple of places (Alex is into photography).
They finally dropped us off at the turn off to their place, no invitation :( Now we were really walking the Austral! But we weren’t alone. Two guys passed on horseback with their dogs. Nice to know there is life out here.

Not 20min had passed when a guys stopped for us. He was going to Cochrane, a bit further than we were hoping, but he stopped in Puerto Guardal. Just as well he was going on. The town is nice, but really nice enough to want to stay for a night. At least not without a way out. We had also read about Caleta Tortel (a town in the Fjords with wooden walkways and no roads) and Cochrane was the ideal stop.
He even recommended a place to stay, which served steak with chips! Ooooo, so nice…I like! We would plan our assault on the south from here.

Walking to the border – The port at Chile Chico – Clarity of the water