Team Fantastico takes on Torres del Paine

A you travel, especially alone, you meet people along the way. As in life the time you spend together depends on many factors. In my case I was lucky to meet 4 other people that were going in the same direction, shared the same goal and go along well. None of us knew it at the time, but we would end up becoming “Team Fantastico.” But first, quick introductions (in order of meeting):

Alex (Mexican): I met him at a Couch Surfer’s house in Ushuaia. Remember Martin from Ushuaia? Well, his host, Carlos, invited Martin, Laura, Anna (the English girls) and myself to supper. Alex was staying there that night. During the usual chat about who you are, where you’re from, where you’ve been and where you’re going, it turned out that Alex and I were going to Puerto Natales on the same bus. Both of us were hoping to hike Torres del Paine national park and thought of doing it together.



 Orlagh (Irish): After the night of partying in Ushuaia, I had to wait on a dark corner for my bus to arrive…alone (Alex and I had different connecting busses to Rio Grande). I wasn’t sure I had the right place and was getting worried since I was the only person there at the time I was told to report. Even the office was still shut. Out of the darkness a girl walked with her backpack. After a quick sanity check, we were assured that we were at the right place. She was also on her way to Torres del Paine. We didn’t talk much about the hike as I was quite tired and wanted to sleep.



Gary (Irish) and Sallie (New Zealander): No he did not know Orlagh from before. After transferring to the larger bus at Rio Grande to take us to Puerto Natales (base for Torres del Paine), Gary and Sallie (to be introduced) were chatting to Elliot, a bit of an obnoxious (I didn’t know at the time) guy, who I’d met in B.A. Gary and Sallie were also on their way to hike Torres.

 

While on the bus, the five of us started talking about the 5-day hike, called “the W” and made plans to meet the following day. Sorry about the pics guys (I took these on the bus while leaving Torres del Paine). Maybe not the best 1st impression, but I like :)

Right, back to business. Plans were made and we were leaving for “the W” the next day. Since we met a 3pm and listened to an info talk till about 4pm, we had to hurry. Fortunately shops stay open until about 10pm every night. Menu was set up, gear rented and shopping was done by 10pm. We all sat down over dinner to spilt up the food. The drawback was that we all got to bed quite late. Me? 2:30am…and I had to be ready for the bus at 7:30 :| Me like sleep.

  Me ready for the bus.

Sunrise - Happy moment - Really small town on the way.

Day 1: The weather on the 1st day was bad. We got off a ferry which took us to Pehoe, in the rain. It was cold! The first day was “an easy” hike to glacier Grey. About 3.5 hours. Not the toughest hike I’ve done, but the combination of driving rain basted from the front by strong wind(a first for me), a heavy backpack (I packed like an amateur) and some borrowed boots that were a bit too small (my toes hated me) made that I was VERY tired by the time we stopped at the camp.
We couldn’t take many photos due to the rain, but saw some very blue pieces of glacier drifting in the lake on our way. This gave us new energy. In fact Gary was so taken by the ice, as were we, that he brought a chunk of it to kook with. We loved this idea, but this made the boiling process take a bit longer than expected.

Gary with the block of glacier

 

Making the feast

 

Drying our shoes.

 

Day 2: During the night the rain had died down and we were greeted by a beautiful sunrise! What a start to the day. Alex wanted to see how far he could walk along the path, and the glacier, so we all decided to split up until lunch when we would all head back to Pehoe for our second night.
The wind had not died down, but without backpacks for this section it wasn’t a problem. The views of the glacier was great! Never thought it was really this blue (the pics have not been altered at all!). I’d decided to bring my tekkies along just in case the boots failed, they needed some glue when I picked them up. I was so relieved about this choice! Since we weren’t climbing mountains (what I really needed boots for) a wore the trainers for the day. This meant I could actually keep up with the others and my feet were once again happy campers.
Pehoe had a very nice hut for the campers with benches and cooking facilities. Mice are a problem at each camp site so we kept out food in here for the night.

 

Sunrise

View of the glacier

Sallie hanging on for dear life in the wind

 

 

The contrast that has kept me in awe throughout Patagonia – Glacier Grey – Team Fantastico ready for the road – Orlagh busy with supper

Day 3: This would be our longest day. We had to walk for 2.5 hours across fairly flat ground, go up the mountain to a mirador (viewpoint), without backpacks, then back and continue another 2 hours to our camp. I was doing some shoe swapping along the way to save my feet (I also noticed that one of the boots started to dislike its sole).
The hiking on the flat parts was fine. My body had gotten used to the hiking so I was able to keep up and quite enjoyed it.
The highlight was valley Frances, the valley leading up to the mirador. You walk on the edge of the tree line with a glacier on the other side of the valley. Great views! Unfortunately I don’t have photos, as my batteries died (the cold gets to them quickly) but take my word for it :) The glacier looks like water running down the mountain that has frozen solid, sprinkled with rocks from the surrounding mountain. I’m sure Gary or Alex’ blog will have photos. Check on the “Links” page for their blog (at the time of writing, Alex was in the process of setting up his blog).
The weather was really weird! It started off raining in the morning, then stopped. While at the mirador there was a small patch of sun, just to highlight the view after which it started to snow! This place is known for how quickly the weather can change.

Sunrise at Pehoe – The only shot I got of the glacier

Day 4: Yesterday’s snow made last night VERY cold! Woke up in the middle of the night and put on some layers to keep me warm. Due to this temperature drop and all of us camping tonight further up in the mountain, we had to make a decision. We would camp at Hosteria (close to the only hotel in the park) and walk to the Torres very early. “Torres” means towers and they are the main attraction in the park.
This meant that we had an easy day’s walking ahead of us. The weather was clearing so at last we could really enjoy the views of the park.
We had lunch on a rock outcrop. It was stunning! Snow capped mountains on the one side, valley on the other.
Just after lunch, guys came past on horseback. Everything is transported by horseback between the camp sites and refugios (little, overpriced huts with fire, showers and a kitchen) in the park.
We arrived early (4pm) at the campsite and were glad to see that we were allowed to make fire here (its prohibited in the rest of the park because some idiot burned down 10% of the park in 2005). Tents pitched, fire lit…we were in heaven. Ok, maybe some sherry would’ve made it better :)
We were all in bed by 20:30 as we were leaving the next morning at 5am. Alex, Orlagh and I squeezed into Alex’s 2man tent. After joking for about 20min, we finally got to sleep.

 
After the coldest night – Our lunch spot – Happy campers at Hosteria

   All squeezed into the tent

Day 5: So this is the day we have been looking forward to and probably the main reason for coming here…seeing the Torres at sunrise. It is said that they turn pink in the sunrise, for a very short time. We set off at 5:15 in the dark with headlamps lighting the way. Strange at first, but you get used to it quickly and soon it is the coolest way to hike. The moon helped a bit too.
We arrived as the sun was rising. Unfortunately we were not the only ones there. Some crazy Americans thought it was their duty to make the whole world know that they were there….and American. Whoop-dee-doo. Kids these days. Tsk, tsk.
Alex and I were the last to leave the summit, after all of us took a crazy amount of photos. As we walked down the day unfolded and was perfect! A light breeze with no clouds. It was the first time I could once again appreciate the contrast of Patagonia. Stream, autumn coloured trees and the snow capped mountains. Truly spectacular.
We got back to camp with 1.5hours to spare before the bus would pick us up to take us back to Puerto Natales. A nice relaxed end to a great trek.
The boots had pretty much destroyed themselves, but my feet survived.

Team Fantastico did it! (and without killing each other :) )

 

What was left of the boots

 

The morning of the hike

 

Pictures from the summit of the Torres:
Looking to the opposite peak

The Torres

Alex & I

On the way down

Oh, before I forget. “Torres del Paine” does not mean “Towers of Pain”, even though it felt that way sometimes. “Paine” is “blue” in the native language. Apparently there are Torres up valley Frances, which we didn’t see. But they are blue due to the glacier…we have been told :)

Oh, and other thing…to keep you in perspective. Ushuaia to Puerto Natales map :)