The island of Chiloe

We, Alex and I, arrived in Puerto Montt after dark. Our first impression of the place was not great, probably compacted by many people having told us that they didn’t like it. So we decided to head off. Unfortunately in our separate ways.
Hang on, I might have written about this before. This all feels too familiar…Ag well, can’t hurt.
Alex headed north for an interview and I took a bus to Ancud, on the island of Chiloe.

I arrived quite late, around 8pm. Yes I know this is in conflict with one of my rules of travelling, but after travelling for a while I have gotten used to how things are, or can be, done in Chile. As long as the place is on a travel route or a popular tourist destination (out of season), the chances of finding accommodation close to the bus terminal is good. Just arrive and ask someone local, like a vendor, where you can find a cheap hostel (“Donde esta barato hospedaje?” in Spanish). I got pointed in the direction of “Hospedaje Mimi”, right next to the bus terminal. I wasn’t in the mood for accommodation shopping, so I just went there.

Mimi is a very friendly lady. I think the hospedaje is in her house, as I saw photos and certificates on the walls of what looked like family. She did a great job of making me feel at home from the word go. She studied English many years ago, so if I couldn’t understand her, she would try explain in English or whip out her bi-lingual dictionary. She also gave me the low-down on things to see and do around Ancud and the island. And this was honest info, as she advised me against doing activities that were out of season.

Ready for my attack on Ancud, I went walking around the next day. Unfortunately the museum was closed, but a lady walked out as I arrived and pointed me in the direction of the patrimonial museum (at least that's what I’m calling it). On Chiloe there is almost no rocks to build with, so almost everything is build from wood (there is lots on the island, or used to be). The island was known for its ship building. On that point, I saw an anchor made from wood! Had rock in the middle to make it sink, but the structure was wood. In fact, I was so intrigued by the wooden churches (called Inglesia), that I wanted to see more of them.

The next day I headed for Achao, on an island, but stopped at another on the way church (in Dalcahue). It was closed, and was told by a tour guide (that I met while having lunch) that it was closed for the season. It’s only open for 2 months of the year! At least I got my much desired Pollo Asado (BBQ chicken). So off to Achao. What the tour guide hadn’t told me, or didn’t know, the church was closed on Monday’s. It was Monday :( Slept there the night to see the church the next day. Opened at 11:00. At least I got a nice lie-in :)
Next day…church still closed! Damn. Off to Castro I went (map from Ancud to Castro), at least I knew that church is open!

I got there with enough time to have a look at the church and spend some time in it. What makes this church different from the rest is that this is the only one that was designed! But the design was done by a European architect who only worked in stone. So the stone design was reproduced in wood by the carpenters of Chiloe to look just like the design! The front is clad with tin, moulded to look like stone. Even the pillars are shaped like stone. This is some pretty impressive woodwork, even if it isn’t always well rounded off (like almost everything in South America).

I was contemplating whether to go to Santiago when I arrive in Castro, but felt just too rushed. That night Gary (Team Fantastico) emailed us to organise a Team Fantastico get-together in Pucon. I was kind of set on getting to Santiago, but thought I could make some time to see the guys. And I wanted to see Pucon.
So the next day I went to see another church just south (in Chonchi) and was planning to take a bus to Puerto Montt and a night bus to Pucon. This didn’t give me much more time on Chiloe, but since I’d seen everything I’d wanted to, I felt fine with that. Unfortunately the churches on Chiloe only open at 11:00. So I got there, looked at the church and town, back to Castro to get a bus to Puerto Montt. This is where the story gets interesting.

I had to get to Pucon and if I timed the bussed right, I’d be able to get to there by the night. Unfortunately I’d calculated the travelling time to Puerto Montt incorrectly. It would take me 3 hours to get there, not 2 as I’d thought. This would make me 30 min late for the 17:00 bus that went directly to Pucon. Crap! I was hoping, and praying, that the bus would get there early. Not likely in South America :) We arrived at 17:15.
You guess I’d be stuck….but I’ve learned a couple of things while here. Many people get on the bus in the middle of nowhere without a ticket. Probably because there is a ticket office. The pay for the ride on the bus. Instead of wasting time by going to the various bus companies trying to find a bus that was going directly to Pucon, I’d look for a bus on the platform. The direct bus to Pucon was a JAC bus (that’s the company). So I found the first JAC bus and it was going to Temuco, about 2 hours from Pucon. Great! I explained to the bus guy (not the driver) that I wanted to go to Pucon and asked if there were any busses going there from a destination along the way. He understood and told me to get aboard.
He spent some time finding out (while driving) which bus was going to Pucon. Valdivia was that place. However, on arrival on Valdivia he told me to get back on the bus. I was confused, but trusted him as he seemed to know what was potting and had been helpful till now. Apprehensively I got back on. We ended up stopping in the middle of nowhere, where the road split to Pucon. 10sec later, the bus that I’d missed in Puerto Montt was there. We threw my backpack from the one bus to the other, while it was moving. 1 hour later I as in Pucon.
This guy (don’t even know his name) sorted me out so well. He would probably say he was only doing his job :)

Prayer answered, I was in Pucon (at 23:00) but with no accommodation. While getting my map of Pucon out, I was approached with an offer of accommodation right next to the bus terminal. Sorted, I settled in for the night.

One of the creatures that form part the strange mythelogy of Chiloe – Square in Ancud where these statues are

Sketch of the workmanship of the Inglesias (churches) of Chiloe – Model of the church in Castro – The display area

The beach in Ancud – At this hostel you can get WIFE….a little bit of Engrish here :) - 1st church I saw (closed). But nice setting.

 
Many boats seem to be abandoned on the coast – The ferry to the island where Achao is - A ferry in the opposite direction

   
Walkways at the beach in Achao – Looking out over the bay in front of Achao – View from the graveyard in Achao

   
The church in Castro – From the front – Inside the nave – Intersecting barrel vaults…in wood!

– Place where the train used to stop. Now a historic garden – Random boat on the shore

 
House are build on the coast on stilts, called Palafinos – How to make a lock out of wood! – Wooden prop! (these guys are good)

  
Me with the average height of the indigenous people :)

 
Second open church - Inside

Mimi and me (the lady where I stayed in Ancud)