The motorcycle debacle – Purchasing a motorcycle in Brazil

Some of you might know this story, others I’ve told its coming to the blog. I haven’t had the energy to explain this to everyone individually. Sorry. So from the beginning, here it is:

Before I left SA I had the desire to travel South America by motorbike (no the "motorcycle diaries” was not my inspiration, rather Top Gear’s Vietnam special). So I did some research which was sadly lacking, as Brazil was not part of my plan. I was originally going to land in Argentina. What I DO know about Argentina. You can’t buy a motorcycle in Argentina, as a non-permanent resident, and take it out of the country. So I was looking at buying in Chile.

The plan was then to travel by following my nose around the southern half of South America. I like to follow my nose while travelling, which is not really possible when travelling my bus. I would then focus on sleeping at campsites as I figured I would be able to save money & thus stretch my travelling time.

On arrival I started making inquiries about how to purchase a bike & take it across borders. Shortly after arriving in Brazil, Nick introduced me to Adriana (she’s a Carioca). She has a friend, Rodrigo, who has done such a trip. Unfortunately she couldn’t get hold of him at the time. I had the idea of going to the South African consulate as I’m sure they would be able to help me. I walked there and by the time I arrived, they were officially closed. Fortunately the lady working there, Anne, was VERY helpful. I explained what I was planning to do. She didn’t have the right information, but told me that the tourist police could help me. She translated a couple of key sentences for me (English & Portuguese) and even phoned the Uruguayan consulate to hear what I need to cross the border. I need a Carte Verde (Green card :) but like travel insurance) She couldn’t give me more info that that. So, with directions, translations and some info I was off.
At the tourist police I was helped by Bruno. Once again very helpful. I got told that the organisation that I needed to contact was Detran (their equivalent or our traffic department). He also told me where I could have a look at 2nd hand bikes (in an area in the north of Rio, called Vila Vaqueire. The street is Intendente Magalhaes). Apparently it is one long street with 2nd hand car & bike dealers all along it. Ok, so now I knew where to get a bike. Oh yes, I forgot to mention. I had a look at a new Suzuki & Honda 125cc delivery bike. Even though these bikes are manufactured in Brazil, taxes are so high that the Suzuki was R$ 5000 and the Honda R$ 6000. At the current exchange rate, that puts them at between R 25 000 and R 30 000! Hence why I was looking at the second hand option.

Next day I went to the Detran offices close to Leblon. No English speaking people there, but the lady pointed me in the direction of another branch. I assumed that someone there would be able to speak English. It turned out the new place was the place where vehicle registration is done. There was one guy that spoke English and he was the first person in this quest of mine that didn’t seem very helpful. Got some info though.
To register a vehicle on my name I need the following: RG (Identification), CPF (social security number, eish), a residential address (apparently I don’t need proof of this, but I would get a letter from Adriana just in case) and CRV (the vehicle’s papers). RG & residence = not a problem. CRV = when I get the bike. Ok, but what is this CPF? The guys sent me to Detran Sede (headquarter) in Av. President Vargas for this info.

Detran Sede has a special unit just to help foreigners on the 2nd floor. Only 2 of the 5 people speak English there. The boss and a new girl. You can think that the boss doesn’t want to deal with everyone so I got the new girl (only found that out later). She explained things well (asking the boss quite often). Getting the CPF is a little more involved. Go to the federal police and apply for a SINCRE (all my info: Where I’m from, where I live, what I do, who my parents are, the whole shebang). At the same time I apply for a RNE (permanent version of the SINCRE). SINCRE = a couple of days. RNE = 2- 6 months. The SINCRE allows me to apply for the CPF at a bank, which shouldn’t take long (maybe while you wait, but no longer than 2 days). On top of all that I have to have my license professionally translated as police are very strict in Brazil. Any problem with my paperwork & they would confiscate my bike. I also got given a list of my rights (in Portuguese) should I be pulled over. The brutality of the police is well know in Brazil and they walk around with assault rifles! This is not what you want to hear if you are a tourist wanting to possibly mingle with the cops by buying a bike.
Great now I know how to register a vehicle on my name, but how do I take it across borders? Apparently I need a DRV. The same as Carte Verde? To find out, I needed to go to the 6th floor.Things were tricky up to this point. Getting info & communicating, but now it became practically impossible & the first mountainous hurdle I encountered as no-one on this floor spoke English. After trying to explain what info I was after, in broken Portuguese & hand signals to the only person who literally understood 10 words of English, the boss from the 2nd floor was called. Now she was helpful. I couldn’t get any more info on the DRV. She said that it wouldn’t be a problem as long as I brought a translator along.

By this time I was close to depressed. Asking for a coffee in a street side bar is ok, but speaking to officials about vehicle registration was impossible. FUCK! So my options were as follows: Got though with a purchase (Adriana was willing to help to translate) and hope I get nice cops (not likely). And what about at border crossings? When I get back, selling the bike? This felt like a huge gamble! In a country where I could communicate, I would definitely give it a shot!
The other option is to drop the bike idea and bus it. This looks like the sane option at the moment. Needles to say that this is not really what I had in mind. So I need to re-evaluate my plans…again.

Some other options have been suggested or come to the fore. Try to do this in Uruguay. Do a trip from the USA. Whatever I do, I NEED to learn the local language before I try this again. So much time dreaming before the trip, but no enough time preparing. I’m used to be able to travel “by the seat of my pants”, but only possible if you can communicate.